• Brake Pads for Toyota Modell (04465-28020 D263-7167) System 1
  • Brake Pads for Toyota Modell (04465-28020 D263-7167) System 2
Brake Pads for Toyota Modell (04465-28020 D263-7167)

Brake Pads for Toyota Modell (04465-28020 D263-7167)

Ref Price:
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Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 set
Supply Capability:
50000 set/month

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Basic Info.

Model NO.:Toyota HIACE

Certification:TS16949, ISO9001, ISO9002

Type:Brake Pads

Material:Semi-Metal

Position:Front

Width:145.4mm

Height:56.9mm

Thickness:15.5mm

Oe:04465-25040

Fmsi:D1344-8455

Wva:21468

Trw:Gdb3059

Export Markets:Global

Additional Info.

Trademark:According to the customers′ requirements

Packing:Neutral Packing/Genuine Packing/Customer′s Request

Origin:Dezhou, Shandong, China

HS Code:8708301000

Production Capacity:200, 000 Sets/Month

Product Description

We promise to provide the highest quality products for every customers! 

You give me a chance, I'll give you a satisfactory service

Our Advantage

1> We have rich friction material formula system for every car series. 

2> Most of our raw material are imported from Japan, German, France and Netherlands. 

3> We have all the craft, process and technology in brake pads producing line in the world. 

4> We have big bench test instrument to promise the braking performance of our products. 

And every our new formula are tested by installing on our local taxi. 

5> We can produce as your samples. 

6> We can supply you with OE quality brake pads. 

Detailed Specification

1. Non-asbestos disc brake pad

2. Material: Semi-metalic/ceramic

3. Certification: TS16949/ISO9001

4. Packing detail: Inner packing: Heat shrink bags/boxes; Outer packing: Cartons

5. Comfortable braking performance: No noise, no dust, less wear loss, less fade, better recovery

6. Minimum order quantity: 200sets

7. Port of shipment: Qingdao or Tianjin

8. Supply ability: 30000sets per month

9. Delivery time: 7 working days after receive the deposit

10. Payment terms: T/T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q:Simple question that i want to know answer to.
The 2 most general conditions are-bad main and rod bearings on the crankshaft which allows both the crank and rods to throw up past tolerance levels and the piston crashes into the valve.The other is usually a keeper pops on top of the valve and allows the valve to drop and crash into the piston,caused by high or prolonged rpm's
Q:I bought the motorcycle bleeder kit with the pump to bleed my rear brakes. My issue right now is that there is no brake fluid coming out when I use the bleeder. The pump works fine because I can feel the suction. The reservoir has plenty of brake fluid. The valve is open. I don't understand why it's not working. This all started a week ago when I changed my brakes myself. I'm pretty sure I did everything correctly, and I don't understand why the brake fluid won't come out. Help please!
when I put in braided stainless strains on my Kawasaki, I too had a very stressful time getting each and all of the air out. first of all, vacuum pumps artwork super for vehicle disc brakes, yet for motorbike disc brakes and previous form vehicle drum brakes, they pull air previous the brake piston seals and you in no way get each and all of the air out. I even have one and prefer something, there's a time and place for it yet no longer on motorcycles and vintage automobiles. first of all, with a hose on the bleed screw on the calipers, open the screw one after the different and compress the calipers one after the different till you have the pistons pushed each and each of how in. this might expell as lots air as obtainable. Then particularly loosen the banjo bolt on the mastery cylinder. conserving a brilliant wadded rag under it, loosen the bolt possibly a million/4 turn and pull the lever back each and each of how till fluid flows out of the banjo bolt. Tighten the bolt and then bypass all the way down to the T installation. With a sparkling rag (you do no longer desire to apply the previous rag and drip brake fluid onto the fender), do an identical with the different end of the line coming from the grasp cylinder. Then do the two one among the different fittings on the strains going to the calipers. Then flow all the way down to the calipers and with a hose on the bleed screw, open the screw somewhat, squeeze the brake lever and while you're conserving it back close the screw. launch the brake lever and repeat it over back till no bubbles seem and then bypass to the different one. this might desire to expell each and all of the air. If it nonetheless seems somewhat spongy, attempt parking the motorbike out in the nice and comfortable solar all day and notice if that helps. that's what it took to get each and all of the air out on my Kaw.
Q:i live in the uk and ride on a provisional licence. i am currently studying motorcycle mechanics and i am about to embark on a honda c90 project bike and wan to make my own LED brake, tail and indicator combo light for the rear, is this legal, and if so is there a certain brightness i need? thanks :)
I assume so, if it meets the motor vehicle construction and use rules. Sometimes commercial manufacturers can get away with not meeting that, if they have a design common to many countries. If you are using the stock lens assembly, that should meet requirements for size, placement etc.
Q:Any information on motorcycle statistics is helpful, same with cars, thanks!
Good answers from others. When you buy a tire, it goes on a certain rim. That rim has a unique signature. So when the tire goes on, it will run true only a certain way. By adding weights to it in strategic places, that tire matched with that rim will run true. That is what you want. So every time a tire is replaced on a rim, it must be balanced.
Q:I used to stop motorcycle by pulling clutch and pressing rear brake. This make rear tyre to slip often, then my friend told me not to pull the clutch and directly press the rear brake and when it stops then pull clutch and downshift the gear. Is this method right? I tried it and really it don‘t allow rear tyre to slip, I am able to stop at over 50kmph without slipping the tyre. But I have question, does this harm engine? I change engine oil in 6000km which is recommended by manufacturer.
I don't know what bike you ride but 90% of your braking power comes from the front wheel. Forget the back brake and concentrate on the front. Ignore those idiotic stories about being flipped over the bars.
Q:I have a 2000 Honda CBR f4 and need to know what brake fluid to use
The NEW standard is DOT 5 and compatible with the DOT 4 in your Bike.
Q:the brake and running lights dont wrk when the motorcycle is running, but when you turn the key to auxillary then they work how do i fix this problem, the front headlights work and the blinkers work but the back break lights and running lights dont work. if there is any one who has a diagram of the bike or anything will help! thanks!
You need to put the bike into a workshop for an experienced mechanic to examine. Even young machanic's struggle with electrics on a bike so try and find an experienced mechanic, they are the only Guys who can solve the problem.

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