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FAQ

thinking of using Wedi Board to renovate a shower, this product is great for tile but saw a show room shower that used scratch coat cement, how hard is this to do compared to tiling?

If you mean instead of tile, remember that unless you plan to paint it - concrete or cement is not waterproof. Think of a concrete pool - it requires periodic painting (maintenance). There are a lot of thin solid surface products out there if you do not want to look of tile. Tiling is not that hard as long as you prepare properly and take your time. There are alot of site with tiling guidelines out there - the important thing is to install/prepare the surface properly and seal the grout when you are done.

I've already got the cement board down, taking it back up would mean messing with the toilet flange, which means plumbing, and that sucks. Plywood was in pretty good condition. Thanks in advance!

Just use a bunch of screws to hold the cement board in place. If you do this it will be just fine.

i am going to tile my bathroom floors , and the walls around the shower stall and bath tub.. what do i use where and what is the difference.

I usually use Hardiboard on walls, but will use either on floors...I don't particularly like the way wonderboard & similar products crumble, especially with multi-cut corners. Good luck...

I have a bare concrete/cement floor. After I installed Travertine on one section, it is almost 1/2 inch above the floor. Now, I want to continue to install the other section of the floor with laminate wood, but the floor is too low compared to the travertine floor. The question are: Can I put down a particle board over the concrete/cement floor, then a foam pad (moisture barrier), then laminate wood?Will the particle board absorb water then swell up?Or do I need to put down the moisture barrier foam first, then particle, then laminate wood?If I am not using the particle board, the laminate wood floor will be about 1/8 lower than the travertine floor. is it ok?

1/8 isn't very much. You'll need t-moulding (transition moulding) between the two materials anyway. Rather than PB or ply, why not cleant he concrete, cpply primer, and pour self leveler on it? You'll make up your 1/8 in no time, without worrying about moisture affecting the substrate. Even plywood will warp and delaminate over time if exposed to moisture. You could get marine grade plywood (mdo or something, i've only had to get it once) but it'll be hard to come by the thickness you need in any substrate. Or just leave it alone and get a t-moulding that will make a transition over the 1/8 difference. They make plenty of different profiles.

how do I lay cement board on a concrete floor with out screws?

That would be an improper installation. The screws push the board down into the adhesive. Go to the manufactures website. They have guides on how to properly install cement board. I used Durock to build a hearth for my wood stove. Their website actually had an installation document on how to do it.

We are going to remove the vinyl flooring. It has a 1/4in sub floor over hardwood.

There are tens of thousands of ceramic-tile installations all over the world that are hundreds of years old that are still in great shape. Almost all of these are installed directly over concrete or somecement-based material If you want a gorgeous ceramic-tile job, you need to be sure the backer board is in the same plane and the walls are perfectly plumb. In the old days, the tile setters installing the wet cement stucco took the time to get the stucco perfectly plumb and flat, even if the wall studs were crooked, bowed or bent. for other information you can check my source site

is there an easier way than just hammering to break it up until we ache? By old school we mean the house was built in the 50's and there is some type of chicken wire material in it.

gotta break it up, if you want it out. Why not cover over it? If you are dead set on removal start at the top of wall break through to the wire. Start cutting the wire and pulling it free from the wall.

Do you have to tape and fill seams on cement board when applying ceramic tile over it like when doing drywall?

With all due respect to those who say it's not necessary, I think you're looking for trouble if you don't fill the seams with fiberglas mesh tape and flexible thinset mortar. No harm can come from it, and it can only help prevent problems. Also, if you're installing in a damp environment (bathroom, especially), cover the screw heads with some oil-based paint and let it dry for a day or more before putting the mortar on. I've seen cases where people didn't do that, and after a few years rust from the screw heads started to penetrate the top surface of the tile.